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Arctic Tent Lacing

cdn031

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I was going to resurrect a 2 year old post but given
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 100 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic. ":

I wil ask something more specific:
When lacing up the 5 man arctic (as in lacing in the liner...), does one knot at the lace points or leave it free floating?
(Still one long cord)
I've seen this done both ways - wondering if there is a practical reason for one way or the other

 
You talking about the two lines of para cord on the inside to dry clothing?
 
Yes
I've learned that one should use a contrasting colour (Not white)
but seen the two line sets knotted (with slack)  takes time
-or-
Left loose (they bunch up a little) , but fast to do
 
GridNorth said:
Yes
I've learned that one should use a contrasting colour (Not white)  I use 550 cord
but seen the two line sets knotted (with slack)  takes time
-or-
Left loose (they bunch up a little) , but fast to do

Generally I thread it through all the eyelets ensuring that I leave some extra length to allow for it to be stretched out when the tent is pitched then tie off in a reef knot. (been awhile since I have had to thread a new tent togethere)


EDITED FOR SPELLING
 
And the Basic Cold Weather Training Pam (B-GL-323-003/FP-001) gives little direction to lacing other than:

e. Thread the long or the lower drying line through the drying line keepers. To get
the drying line keepers through the inner seam splits, feel through the liner at the
peak or centre of the doorway, follow up the seam on the panel of the outer tent,
when you reach the drying line keeper, insert it through the split seam of the liner
and thread the drying line on. There is a keeper on every seam. This means there
are 10 keepers for the lower drying lines.
f. Thread on the short or upper drying line. Start at the door seam again and carry
out the same drill as for the lower drying line. There will be a keeper on each side
of this one and then one on every second seam. This means that there will be six
drying line keepers on the top.
 
on the CIC cold weather course we were directed to just have it 'unknotted.
 
Been awhile since I have been in an artic tent. We sometimes had problems with the lines getting caught or tangled during set up. To eliminate this problem small key rings were attached to the keepers, this keeps the keepers exposed through the liner. The drying lines can be quickly threaded through the key rings when required and be quickly removed just prior to tear down.

Cheers,
 
Having spent a lot of time eating up class A money working for the quarter master repairing and inspecting arctic tents... the most irritating problem I've found is when some silly fool uses paracord or the thin green utility cord for the drying lines... it catches between the upper and lower sections of the pole and binds in the threads... make sure you use the heavier cord as is used on the wind lines.
 
Just a Sig Op said:
the most irritating problem I've found is when some silly fool uses paracord or the thin green utility cord for the drying lines... it catches between the upper and lower sections of the pole and binds in the threads... make sure you use the heavier cord as is used on the wind lines.
Really?

The Wind Lines I've seen use a VERY heavy cord & Plastic tensoning slab.. I can't imagine threadig this thru the brass Eyelets attached to the outer...its gotta be 1/4 inch or more... plus it mught encourage the not-so-bright to hang heavy things... Still,  thanks!

ammocat said:
Been awhile since I have been in an artic tent. We sometimes had problems with the lines getting caught or tangled during set up. To eliminate this problem small key rings were attached to the keepers, this keeps the keepers exposed through the liner. The drying lines can be quickly threaded through the key rings when required and be quickly removed just prior to tear down.

KEY RINGS are  a great idea and may eliminate the above issue... now where to find stainless split rings bu the box... And I've already lost count of how many I"ll need!

Thanks!!

Any other tips & tricks not covered in the pam?

 
- Assembly: Line up the stovepipe holes (NOT the doors: they are offset) and lace from there.
- Tie the pole into the apex.  Pole may need to be drilled and a key ring inserted through it to hold a washer, below which the wrapping can be done.
- Drill the pegs and tie them onto the lines permanently.
- Reverse the lines so the loop is at the tent end, not the peg end.
- NEVER tie a knot in a guy line to shorten it.
- NEVER strike, fold, and pack tentage with steel spikes tied to the lines.
 
GridNorth said:
Really?

The Wind Lines I've seen use a VERY heavy cord & Plastic tensoning slab.. I can't imagine threadig this thru the brass Eyelets attached to the outer...its gotta be 1/4 inch or more... plus it mught encourage the not-so-bright to hang heavy things... Still,  thanks!

Same cord as the wind lines. Fits through the keepers, it's a perfect fit... almost as if it were designed to go there... ;)

As I said, anything smaller will get stuck inside the two pole sections, takes lots of grunting and swearing to get it out somtimes.

With regards to heavy things, on a sloppy wet exercise, my combat jacket+windpants can easily weigh 20-30lbs. They get hung on the drying lines, no problem.

KEY RINGS are  a great idea and may eliminate the above issue... now where to find stainless split rings bu the box... And I've already lost count of how many I"ll need!

Thanks!!

Any other tips & tricks not covered in the pam?

Have supply order them from wherever they order their PPS, most office supply places will sell bulk key rings. Larger are better (two inch).

I've also seen it done with loose binding rings, but these have a habit of popping open, and with a bent nail passed through the roll and then wrapped silly with electrical tape, but these have a problem of being difficult to remove.

Another tip, don't ever let anyone walk on the tent when it's collapsed, even if they're just stepping on it for a second to reach a windline... the pressure between rocks on the ground and your boot cuts small holes in the tent!
 
TCBF said:
- Assembly: Line up the stovepipe holes (NOT the doors: they are offset) and lace from there.
- Tie the pole into the apex.  Pole may need to be drilled and a key ring inserted through it to hold a washer, below which the wrapping can be done.
- Drill the pegs and tie them onto the lines permanently.
- Reverse the lines so the loop is at the tent end, not the peg end.
- NEVER tie a knot in a guy line to shorten it.
- NEVER strike, fold, and pack tentage with steel spikes tied to the lines.

NEVER light the stove or lanterin INSIDE the tent. Lost count how many times I have kicked a stove out the damn door because some numpty failed to follow this rule and flooded it out resulting in almost catching the tent on fire.
Also you might want to tie a knife to the pole in case the tent catches fire. Make your exit hole  ;D
 
Oh and when in the perimiter of the tent, don't eat the yellow snow!!
 
The NFLD Grinch said:
NEVER light the stove or lanterin INSIDE the tent. Lost count how many times I have kicked a stove out the damn door because some numpty failed to follow this rule and flooded it out resulting in almost catching the tent on fire.

Can we consider beating out the fire with said numpty as a viable option as well?
 
Just a Sig Op said:
Can we consider beating out the fire with said numpty as a viable option as well?
Consider that carefully. Said numpty maybe of a higher rank who "knows better".
 
OldSolduer said:
Consider that carefully. Said numpty maybe of a higher rank who "knows better".

Sounds like you speak from experience OS  ;D
 
Wooden clothes pins work well to keep your nearly dry kit from being knocked off the drying lines to become wet kit again.
 
Harris said:
Wooden clothes pins work well to keep your nearly dry kit from being knocked off the drying lines to become wet kit again.

Good tip!! Safety pins on your suspenders work as well. The bigger the better.
 
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